Ken's Journey to Tanzania: Journal Entry #9

Ken Russo is spending three months this winter volunteering at The Baobab Home, an orphanage in Bagamoyo, Tanzania that provides care for children with HIV/AIDS. He is documenting his fascinating experiences and sends us periodic updates from his journal. Here is his latest entry. Read about his whole journey starting back at the end of January …

Tuesday, March 2
Terri and I returned late last night from an incredible trip to Nairobi, Kenya. The flight was about an hour, fifteen minutes. We flew over Zanzibar and there were stunning views of snow covered Mt. Kilimanjaro later in the flight. We were visiting relatives of my stepmother and father who have lived in Nairobi for 20 years, Peter, his wife Helga and their two teen aged children Christopher and Hannah. The children were born in Kenya. The second we arrived we were both thrilled by the cool temperature with little humidity. After a month of oppressive weather we were both energized.

After arrival we met the driver of the cab that Helga had sent for us. After leaving the airport it became clear that this was going to be the cab ride from hell. We had originally booked a morning flight which Kenya Airways canceled. We were re-booked on the late afternoon flight that Helga warned would put us in Nairobi at the worst possible time for commuting. She was right. The 12 mile trip to their home took 4 hours! It did give us time to get to know our driver, Hamuel. He arrived in Nairobi after leaving his family’s farm when he was 22. He had no money and was barefoot when he arrived. He slept outside and looked for work for weeks. He now has his cab license and a second job. He and his wife saved enough to buy a 2 room house and are putting their children through school. He said they are raising their children to be independent and well educated. I don’t know when he learned to speak English but he speaks it fluently.

As we approached Peter and Helga’s neighborhood the landscape changed dramatically. We left the crowded urban streets of Nairobi and entered an area that I can only describe as Greenwich, CT. We were stopped by guards at the gate and entered the Spring Valley area. Well maintained roads, mature trees and plantings everywhere with beautiful homes behind high walls, some of the walls with razor wire on top. There were dogs behind most of the gates and small guardhouses at the entrance to most of the driveways. I felt like we had left Africa and entered suburbia, albeit a very secure suburbia.

We drove down the long brick driveway to the house and arrived at a metal gate which a guard opened as he welcomed us to the property. The two story house is comfortable and filled with interesting African art. We were met at the door by Jacinta, the housekeeper and after bringing our bags in she drove us to meet Peter and Helga at a birthday party they were attending in the neighborhood. Many of Helga’s colleagues were there as were many people working in HIV and malaria research. We were welcomed warmly and walked down the long backyard hill to the tent where the party was winding down. The adjacent property is one of the United Nation’s world headquarters. The food was delicious, the conversation smart and passionate and with the full moon and cool weather we were extremely content.

The next day found us at Nairobi’s International School’s food festival. It was held on the campus of this most extraordinary school with its excellent academics, plus world class arts and athletic facilities. This includes an Olympic size pool and a 500 seat theater for performing arts. The grounds are manicured and there are towering shade trees many in full bloom. There are students from all over the world who will all probably go on to universities in Europe or the US.

The festival was held in a large field with tents and tables and chairs and there was food from at least 50 countries. The huge crowd was in great spirits and the mood was festive. We were accompanied by Peter, Helga and Helga’s delightful parents visiting from Germany, Hans and Margarete.

We headed to the US Embassy after the fair for a swim in their large pool. We were waved through two sets of gates and were in the pool shortly after. It was great to swim and the pool was plenty big enough for lap swimming. We returned home refreshed and ready for dinner.

We left Spring Valley for Mediterraneo, an Italian restaurant in Nairobi proper. This restaurant is popular with expats and the food was excellent. Helga’s parents regaled us with some incredibly harrowing tales of life under soviet rule in East Germany including the time they were caught trying to cross the border into West Germany.

On Sunday we had a leisurely breakfast in their sunny dining room with everything your heart desired on the table with all manner of local fruits, homemade jams, bagels, cereals etc. The conversation centered on Terri and Baobab.

Later that afternoon Peter and Helga took all of us to the very British, Mugaitha Club. It must have been what colonial Africa was like for Europeans. It was elegant, complete with white glove service. The grounds and buildings were impeccable and the patrons were well dressed, everyone engaged in quiet conversation.

We enjoyed a delicious, light supper on Sunday evening prepared by Helga and served on the patio undisturbed by insects or humidity. There was much fun as the children joined us. They are well mannered, very bright and extremely charming.

It was hard to leave Monday morning but we said our thank yous and goodbyes and purchased 3 jars of Jacinta’s delicious homemade jam. Peter and Helga were the consummate hosts and we couldn’t have had a nicer time. Helga’s parents were a joy and I hope to see them again. I look forward to seeing them all this summer in Marion as they own a home that has been in Peter’s family for generations.

The return trip to Jomo Kenyatta Airport took less than an hour. Kenya Airways, again, canceled our 1:30 flight and we didn’t leave until 5pm. In the interim Terri had to endure an interview with the airport doctor as she is 7 months pregnant and the airline wanted to confirm that she was fit for travel. The interview cost 600 Kenyan shillings, about $8.00 Traffic was a nightmare in Dar and the ride back with Terri’s husband took 3 hours to cover 50 miles.

We are back in the humid soup that is Bagamoyo with much planned over the next few weeks.